How to Spot a Quality Tie

T.M.Lewin | How To Spot A Good Quality Tie

T.M.Lewin | How To Spot A Good Quality Tie

A tie is an investment in style. After all, the flourish of fabric is the one of a limited number of masculine accessories that can add a little individual flair and change up your outfit’s personality.

But unfortunately, all ties aren’t created equal – to help weed out the impostors, the following features will help you figure out which ties are neck-worthy.

The Material

As a rule, your tie should be made of 100% natural fibres. At T.M.Lewin, our ties are either 100% silk or wool and recently, we have started to mix linen into a few of our designs for added texture.

T.M.Lewin | How To Spot A Good Quality Tie

The Interlining

Hidden beneath the shell of your tie is the interlining, which is made up of two pieces of wool or wool/polyester blend sewn together so that their brushed side is facing out. Not only does this give the tie body and a softer feel, but it also ensures that the material drapes nicely around the neck. A poor quality tie will often contain an interlining blended with a higher percentage of polyester, leaving the tie rigid and the wearer feeling like they could have a piece of cardboard tied around their neck.

The Cut

The best quality ties are always cut on the bias, meaning that the fabric is cut at a 45-degree angle instead of straight across. Mass producers will avoid this technique due to the waste in material. If your tie wrinkles or ripples when pulled straight from both ends, you have most likely purchased a cheaply-made tie.

T.M.Lewin | Recovery Loop

The Recovery Loop

After a long day at work, most men pull off their tie just enough to slip it off their head before tossing it to one side. While there is, in fact, a proper way to take off and care for a tie, a good quality necktie is prepared to be left in a crumpled heap.

Look towards the tail of any T.M.Lewin tie and you will find what seems like a loose loop of thread. But before you reach for your scissors to snip it off, you should know that this isn’t a stitching error. In fact, this piece of thread, known as a recovery loop, runs along the length of a tie and provides that extra bit of give to allow you to reshape the fabric after washing or wearing it.

The Seam

Constructed from 3 or 4 separate pieces of material, a good quality tie will have a seam located halfway along its length, ensuring that the pattern on the blade and tail match up.


Now you know how to judge the quality of a tie, it’s time to learn about the various styles there are to choose from.

Printed Ties

Every modern gentleman should be encouraged to accessorise their suits to stand out from the crowd, and what better way to enhance your look than with a bold printed tie? These vibrant tie collections add a strong sartorial flare to your look as they showcase heritage prints which are individually hand printed on Italian Silk. If you’re unsure about being too bold with your choice of tie why not opt for a more muted colour pallet and subtle print.

Pocket Squares

If you want to stand out from the crowd, then you can’t go wrong with a pocket square. They have made an almighty come back in the recent months thanks to an increased interest in popular television programs such as Mad Men. Don’t be fooled into thinking they’re too extravagant – they are actually the easiest way to transform and lift an outfit. Without a pocket square the breast pocket in your jacket becomes rather redundant.

Slim Ties

Make a sophisticated statement by adding a slim tie to your wardrobe. Slim fit ties are versatile and can be worn for any occasion. They have the ability to transform any modern-cut suit and ensure you’re bang on trend. Opt for a slim black silk knitted tie and you’ve instantly got every occasion covered.

Bow Ties

For formal events, the bow tie is king. Weddings, balls, and award ceremonies are the typical stomping ground of the classic bow tie. But it’s becoming more common to see shirts for men paired with colourful bow ties to make a statement in style. If you’re thinking of pairing a bow tie with a casual shirt or suit, then bear in mind that darker colours are more suited to the office while brighter colours are for social occasions.

What’s your favourite way to knot up? Leave your comments below.


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